What’s What?


Welcome to the injectable landscape — where not everything is “Botox” (even if your aunt calls it that).
Here’s the truth: injectables aren’t one-size-fits-all, and they don’t all do the same thing. Think of them as tools in a really well-stocked aesthetic toolbox — each one with a specific job, a unique mechanism, and its own vibe.
This section breaks it down clearly, so you can finally stop confusing filler with Botox (and sound like the most informed person at your boozy brunch).
Neuromodulators
aka “the wrinkle relaxers”
Brand Names to Know
Botox Cosmetic, Dysport, Xeomin, Jeuveau, Daxxify, Letybo, Relfydess
What They Are
Neuromodulators are injectable medications derived from a purified protein called botulinum toxin — the same family of toxin that causes botulism (but not the same thing, and not dangerous in these doses).
Here’s the deal. Botulinum toxin, when used in tiny, controlled, medical-grade doses, doesn’t cause disease — it simply blocks the nerve signals that tell a muscle to contract. That’s it. No bacteria, no infection, no actual “toxin” hanging around wreaking havoc.
How They Work
Your nerves and muscles are in constant conversation. Normally, nerves send messages to your muscles using a chemical called acetylcholine. Neuromodulators interrupt that message by blocking the release of acetylcholine, which essentially "cuts the cord" between nerve and muscle.
Imagine an old-school landline phone (are you too young for that?).
- Your brain is the person making the call
- The cord is the chemical messenger (acetylcholine)
- The muscle is the person on the other end
When the cord is intact, the call goes through — the muscle contracts.
Inject a neuromodulator? It’s like snipping that coiled phone cord. The message might be sent, but the muscle never gets it.
Over time (usually around 3–4 months), your body regrows that connection, and the muscle begins receiving signals again — which is why the effects gradually wear off and repeat treatments are needed.
What They Do
Most commonly, neuromodulators are used to:
- Soften dynamic lines caused by movement (like frowning or squinting)
- Prevent new wrinkles from forming
- Create balance between muscle groups — like lifting the brows or relaxing a downward- pulling mouth
- Refine expressions — making subtle tweaks for a more rested or relaxed look
Some of the most common treatment areas (for aesthetic purposes) include the glabellar lines (the 11s between the brows), horizontal forehead lines, crow’s feet, horizontal bunny lines on the nose, eye brows for lifting, upper lip for thin lips, chin dimpling, masseters for slimming, and vertical neck bands.
But that’s just the beginning. These injections are also used to:
- Slim the lower face by relaxing enlarged jaw muscles (masseters)
- Treat bruxism (teeth grinding/clenching)
- Stop excessive sweating (underarms, hands, feet, scalp)
- Ease migraines and tension headaches
- Rebalance facial asymmetry, including in Bell’s palsy
- Reduce oil production via “microtox” technique
How Long It Lasts
Neuromodulators don’t work instantly, and they don’t disappear overnight either. Instead, they follow a subtle little rhythm — kind of like a slow build, a peak glow, and a graceful fade-out.
Here's what you can typically expect:
- Days 1–2: Nothing obvious yet. This is normal — the product is binding to the nerve endings behind the scenes.
- Days 3–5: Movement starts to soften. For some, the “kick-in” is subtle and gradual.
- Day 7–14: Full effect. This is when you'll see the peak result — smoother lines, softer expressions, and more balance in facial motion.
Month 2–3: Results remain strong, though you may start to notice early signs of return in
high-movement areas (like the forehead or around the eyes).
Month 4+: The effects gradually wear off as your body regenerates the nerve-muscle
connection. Movement returns little by little — not overnight.
Typical Duration by Product:
- Botox, Dysport, Xeomin, Jeuveau: ~3–4 months
- Daxxify: 4–6 months (thanks to a snazzy peptide that helps it bind more effectively)
- Letybo & Relfydess: Still being evaluated in the U.S. but expected to perform similarly to Botox and Dysport
How long it lasts depends on:
- The area treated (tiny muscles fade faster)
- Your metabolism (faster = shorter lifespan)
- Your facial expressiveness (yes, drama queens burn through it quicker)
- How consistent you’ve been — regular users often get longer-lasting results over time
Bottom line: Results don’t appear overnight, and they don’t vanish overnight either. It’s a soft curve, not a cliff. And with a good injector and a smart schedule, you can ride the wave like a pro.
What It Feels Like
Tiny pinches that are over before your brain has time to finish saying “ouch.” Most people skip numbing entirely, especially in the upper face.
If you’re sensitive, ice or a little topical numbing can be used — but it’s usually not needed.
Downtime? Minimal. You might have a few baby bumps at the injection points for 10–20 minutes, and occasionally a bruise — but most people are back to work or brunch right after.
Who It’s For
Anyone looking to:
- Soften motion lines (without erasing your personality)
- Prevent future wrinkles from setting in
- Rebalance facial features (like lifting heavy brows or relaxing a tight jaw)
- Manage functional concerns like TMJ, tension headaches, or excessive sweating
Basically: if movement is the issue — whether cosmetic or medical — neuromodulators are your calm-down command.
Good to Know
You won’t look frozen unless it’s overdone or misplaced. Good Botox is often invisible — you just look like you slept.
Results start around Day 3–5, with peak smoothness by Week 2.
When it wears off, it does so gradually — no sudden collapse into full motion.
Consistency compounds. Over time, regular treatment can help retrain muscle memory and delay deeper wrinkle formation altogether.
Dermal Fillers
Also known as: the sculptors, the smoothers, the subtle lifters
Brand Names to Know
Juvederm (Allergan), Restylane (Galderma), RHA (Revance), Versa (Revanesse), Belotero (Merz), Radiesse (Merz), Bellafill (Suneva Medical), Evolysse (Evolus)
What They Are
Dermal fillers are injectable gels used to restore volume, enhance facial contours, and refine proportions — all without surgery. They work by physically supporting the skin from beneath, replacing volume that’s been lost with age or genetics, or enhancing what’s naturally there.
Most fillers are made from hyaluronic acid (HA) — a naturally occurring sugar molecule found in the skin and connective tissues. HA is beloved for its ability to attract water, making it ideal for plumping, hydrating, and smoothing. HA fillers come in different textures and thicknesses — some soft and flexible, others firm and lifting — tailored to different facial areas and goals.
They’re also reversible. HA can be dissolved with an enzyme called hyaluronidase, offering both customization and a safety net. But HA isn’t the only filler game in town. There are also non-HA fillers made from other materials with different properties — some are longer-lasting or even permanent, and cannot be dissolved. These are typically used in more advanced or specialized cases, and we’ll cover them in detail in the next section.
Key takeaway: Fillers aren’t about “filling” everything. They’re about restoring structure, enhancing balance, and doing it with precision — not puff.
Types of Fillers
Not all fillers are created equal — and that’s kind of the point.
Different filler types are designed for different purposes. Some are soft and flexible for natural lip movement. Others are firm and structured to hold shape in the jawline. Some slowly disappear, while others are meant to last for years.
Here’s how they stack up:
Hyaluronic Acid (HA) Fillers
The gold standard for flexibility, hydration, and reversibility.
What they’re made of: Hyaluronic acid — a sugar molecule your body already produces — formulated into a smooth, crosslinked gel
Key features:
- Soft, stretchy, and moldable
- Add volume, hydration, or definition
- Naturally broken down by the body over time
- Dissolvable with hyaluronidase if needed (a major plus)
Brands to know:
- Juvederm
- Restylane
- RHA Collection
- Belotero
- Versa
- Evolysse
Common uses: lips, cheeks, chin, jawline, tear troughs, nasolabial folds, marionette lines, temples, hands
Longevity: 6–24 months depending on the product and placement
Calcium Hydroxylapatite (CaHA) Fillers
More structure, more lift — and a side of collagen stimulation
What they’re made of: Tiny calcium particles (similar to what’s found in your teeth and bones) suspended in a gel carrier
Brand name to know: Radiesse
Key features:
- Thicker, firmer texture = excellent for deep support
- Can be injected full strength for volume
- Can also be hyperdiluted and used to stimulate collagen
- Not reversible
Common uses: Jawline, chin, cheeks, temples, hands, neck (hyperdilute)
Longevity: 12–18 months (and longer in some cases)
Polymethyl Methacrylate (PMMA) Fillers
A more permanent solution for specific concerns
What they’re made of: microscopic synthetic spheres suspended in a collagen-based gel
Brand name to know: Bellafill
Key features:
- FDA-approved for nasolabial folds and acne scars
- Stimulates long-term collagen production
- Permanent (the PMMA microspheres stay in place even after the gel is absorbed)
- Cannot be dissolved
Common uses: deep nasolabial folds, etched lines, acne scars
Longevity: 5+ years (yes, really)
Good to Know
Filler doesn’t fix everything — and it shouldn’t try to. Sometimes what looks like a hollow or wrinkle is better addressed with skin tightening or collagen stimulation.
You may swell unevenly at first. That’s normal. Final results settle in at around 2 weeks.
You don’t always need to treat where you see the issue. A good injector will think holistically — your under-eye circles might be improved with cheek support, for example.
“How many syringes will I need?” is a tricky question. One syringe is 1mL — about 1/5 of a teaspoon. Treating the full face usually takes more than one, and it’s often done in stages.
More isn’t always better. It’s not about quantity — it’s about precision, proportion, and your unique anatomy.
HA filler is reversible, but it’s still a medical procedure. Always see a licensed medical professional with experience in advanced facial anatomy.
Skin Boosters
aka “the wrinkle relaxers”
Brand Names to Know
- Skinvive by Juvederm – Allergan (FDA-approved in the U.S.)
- Redensity 1 – Teoxane (widely used in Europe, coming soon to the U.S.)
- Profhilo – IBSA (not yet FDA-approved in the U.S., but popular globally)
What They Are
Skin boosters are ultra-light injectable gels made primarily of hyaluronic acid (HA) — just like dermal fillers — but formulated to hydrate and improve skin quality, not to add volume or structure.
They’re injected very superficially into the dermis or upper subcutaneous layer using microdroplet or micro-aliquot techniques. The goal isn’t to lift or contour — it’s to rejuvenate the skin itself: think glow, bounce, elasticity, and hydration from the inside out.
These are not wrinkle erasers or fillers in the traditional sense — they’re injectable skincare.
How They Work
When injected, the HA acts like a water magnet — drawing moisture into the skin and improving its overall texture, luminosity, and elasticity. Some formulations also include amino acids, antioxidants, or vitamins to support cellular repair.
Unlike traditional fillers, skin boosters are:
- Injected much more superficially
- Placed in a grid or mesh pattern across larger treatment areas
- Not designed to change shape or lift — only to enhance skin quality
Common Treatment Areas:
- Cheeks (especially “crinkly” or crepey skin)
- Lower face (around the mouth and jawline)
- Neck
- Décolleté
- Hands
- Sometimes under-eyes (off-label use in some protocols)
What It Feels Like
Quick pinches or small bumps under the skin — they often look like little bee stings for the first 24 hours. Numbing cream is often used for comfort. Most people experience minimal downtime beyond a few small bumps or dots.
How Long It Lasts
Most patients see results for 6–9 months after a series of 2–3 treatments spaced about a month apart. Maintenance is typically every 6–12 months depending on your skin and goals.
- Think of it as injectable moisturizer — with benefits that go way beyond your serum.
Good to Know
Skin boosters are amazing for dull, dehydrated, or aging skin — especially if you don’t want volume.
They pair beautifully with neuromodulators or lasers — especially post-resurfacing.
Results are subtle — you’ll look refreshed, not “done.”
Not all providers offer them yet — but they’re gaining popularity fast.
Biostimulators
Also known as: collagen builders, long-game glow-up, injectable investments
Brand Names to Know
- Sculptra® (poly-L-lactic acid) – Galderma
- Hyperdilute Radiesse® (CaHA in saline/lidocaine solution) – Merz
- PRP / PRF (platelet-rich plasma / fibrin) – autologous (from your own blood)
- Exosomes – regenerative cell messengers derived from stem cells
- Rejuran® / SkinGenuity / PDGF-based injectables – growth factor platforms
What They Are
Biostimulators are injectables that stimulate your body to produce its own collagen and elastin — giving you a gradual, natural improvement in skin structure, elasticity, and volume over time.
Unlike fillers, which add instant volume, biostimulators work slowly by activating fibroblasts (your skin’s collagen factories). The result? Firmer, tighter, more youthful-looking skin — without adding “stuff” under the surface.
This is subtle, long-game skincare — not instant gratification.
Product Breakdown
Sculptra® (Poly-L-lactic Acid)
How It Works: Sculptra contains microscopic particles of poly-L-lactic acid (PLLA) suspended in sterile water. Once injected into the dermis, these particles create a mild, controlled inflammatory response that activates fibroblasts to begin producing new collagen. The particles are slowly absorbed over several months, leaving behind a firmer, thicker, more elastic dermal structure.
What It Treats:
- Midface volume loss
- Jawline softening
- Temple hollowing
- Facial laxity
- General skin thinning or deflation
What It Feels Like: Similar to filler injections — a few pokes and a little post-treatment puffiness. You’ll feel fuller right after, but that’s the sterile water, not the final result.
How Long It Lasts: Results begin to appear after 4–6 weeks and continue improving for 3–6 months. With a series of 2–3 treatments, results can last 18–24+ months.
Remember, it requires post-treatment massage (5 minutes, 5 times a day, for 5 days)!
Hyperdilute Radiesse® (CaHA)
How It Works: Radiesse, when used in its full form, is a structural filler. But when hyperdiluted (usually with saline and lidocaine), the calcium hydroxylapatite particles are suspended more loosely, allowing for more superficial placement. This triggers collagen and elastin production while also improving skin quality — especially in crepey or lax areas.
What It Treats:
- Neck crepiness
- Jawline and chin contouring
- Facial firmness
- Décolleté or arm laxity
- Thinning skin on hands
What It Feels Like: Quick, superficial injections. Slight swelling or firmness at first; most people resume normal activities immediately.
How Long It Lasts: A series of 2–3 treatments is typical. Results begin around 6–8 weeks and can last 12–18 months, depending on treatment area and skin condition.
PRP / PRF (Platelet-Rich Plasma / Fibrin)
How It Works: Derived from your own blood. After a quick blood draw, your provider uses a centrifuge to separate platelet-rich plasma (PRP) or platelet-rich fibrin (PRF). These contain concentrated growth factors (like PDGF, VEGF, TGF-β) that trigger tissue repair, cell turnover, and collagen synthesis. PRF releases these factors more slowly over time, thanks to its fibrin matrix.
What It Treats:
- Fine lines and dull skin
- Acne scars or texture irregularities
- Hair thinning
- Early skin laxity
- Under-eye dark circles (off-label)
What It Feels Like: A quick blood draw + injections or microneedling. Bruising is possible. Minimal downtime. Feels like a natural “reset.”
How Long It Lasts: Best done as a series of 3–4 treatments, spaced ~4 weeks apart. Maintenance every 6–12 months. Results depend on skin quality and concentration of growth factors.
Exosomes
How They Work: Exosomes are tiny, nano-sized messengers secreted by stem cells. These vesicles deliver proteins, lipids, and genetic material to skin cells, telling them to regenerate, produce collagen, and reduce inflammation. Often used in combination with microneedling or lasers to enhance healing and amplify results.
What They Treat:
- Inflammation
- Post-treatment recovery
- Texture, tone, and clarity
- Skin aging and dullness
- Hair loss
What It Feels Like: Usually applied topically or injected after a procedure like microneedling. No discomfort when applied — feels like a serum.
How Long It Lasts: Early studies show benefits appearing within weeks, especially when used in a series. Ideal for stacking with other treatments.
Good to Know
These treatments are for the long game, not instant results — collagen takes time, but it pays off in a more natural, lasting way.
Some products (like Sculptra) require post-treatment massage to prevent nodules. Your injector will walk you through exactly how. Ideal for early skin laxity, texture changes, and overall aging — especially if you want improvement without looking “done.”
Because they rely on your body’s own collagen response, results vary. Consistency, planning, and a great provider make all the difference.