Serums & Actives: Where the Magic Happens

This is where things get real and where you should spend. Serums and actives are the heavy lifters of your skincare routine. They’re designed to change something—boost collagen, fade dark spots, calm inflammation, unclog pores. But here’s the catch: more is not always better. Layering too many actives at once can backfire, especially if you’re mixing strong ingredients (hello, irritation). The fourth serum you slap on? It’s probably just sitting there feeling confused.

The key: be intentional. Rotate based on your skin goals, seasons, and sensitivity—not trends. Here’s a breakdown of the main categories, what they do, and who they’re for:

Antioxidants: fight free radicals, prevent damage, prevent pigment, brighten skin

Think of antioxidants as your daily skin insurance—protecting you from pollution, UV damage, and the slow creep of time. Vitamin C is the most famous one, but others (like ferulic acid, resveratrol, and green tea extract) deserve spotlight time too. Great for dullness, uneven skin tone, premature aging — basically everyone, especially in the morning.

Some of my best:

• SkinCeuticals CE Ferulic or Phloretin CF Gel
  Iconic for a reason. Potent and proven, but oil-based so not great for those who struggle with acne. If that’s you, Phloretin CF gel for you; it’s water based!
• SkinBetter Science Alto Defense Serum
  Elegant, effective, great for sensitive skin. This isn’t a true vitamin C, but great nonetheless.
• Après Skin & Wellness Lumière
  Our special formulation — the goal is all the potency without the price tag.
• A few more to try: ZO Skin Health Illuminating AOX Serum, ZO Skin Health 10% Vitamin C Self-Activating, iS Clinical Super Serum Advance+

Hyaluronic Acid: hydration without heaviness

Hyaluronic acid draws water into the skin like a magnet. It plumps, soothes, and smooths—but it’s not a moisturizer, so always follow with one to seal it in. It’s a favorite for dehydrated or dry skin, post-procedure recovery, or honestly… anyone who lives in a dry climate or deals with winter skin.

Pro tip if you’re high and dry (hi, Colorado): Always apply HA to damp skin or mix it with a few drops of water in your palm. If your face is bone dry, hyaluronic acid may actually pull moisture from your skin instead of drawing it in. Also worth noting: HA is a big molecule. Apply it last in your serum lineup—right before your moisturizer.

A few of my favorites:

• SkinMedica HA5
  Five forms of hyaluronic acid = layered hydration and silky glide. A clinical gold standard, but a unique plumping texture. Try a sample first!
• SkinCeuticals HA Intensifier
  Boosts the skin’s own HA production and supports elasticity. A little goes a long way.